The last three DKos Travel Board diaries were about exotic locales--Tibet, Cambodia, and the Big Island of Hawaii.
This is not a diary about a faraway destination. This is about a city located smack in the middle of America (in multiple different ways). But although it's easy to get to from anywhere in the U.S., the only thing most people know about Saint Louis is that it has a big Arch.
I should start out by saying that I'm not from here originally, but I've adopted it as my own. So come to the STL and take an American stay-cation!
Saint Louis History
The original inhabitants of the area around Saint Louis were Native Americans of the Mississippian mound-building culture. One of their ancient settlements still stands across the river near Cahokia, Illinois. European exploration of the region began in the 1670s with the French conquering Louisiana and the Mississippi River valley; however, Saint Louis was not officially established for another century, when Pierre Laclède landed at the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers in 1764. The city was named for King Louis IX of France.
Along with the rest of the Louisiana Purchase, the United States took control of Saint Louis in 1803. Lewis and Clark began their expedition westward from Saint Louis the following year. The city grew rapidly throughout the 19th century as a major commercial center during the steamboat era.
By 1900, Saint Louis had grown to be the fourth-largest city in the United States. Saint Louis hosted both the 1904 World's Fair and the 1904 Summer Olympics, the first Olympic games to be held in the U.S.
During the 20th century, Saint Louis experienced many of the same problems as other cities--government corruption, crime, extreme poverty, racial tension, and a population loss to the nearby suburbs of St. Louis County (of which the City of Saint Louis is not a part, something that confused the hell out of me when I first got here) and St. Charles County. However, the population of Saint Louis begun to increase in 2003 for the first time in 50 years, as new industries and a relatively low cost of living make it an attractive place to live once again.
Neighborhoods
There are lots of interesting neighborhoods in Saint Louis, but for time purposes I'll focus on the ones where a traveler will most want to visit.
Downtown
When people think of Saint Louis, this is usually the image that comes to mind:
The iconic image of the Saint Louis skyline, framed by the Gateway Arch representing Saint Louis as the "gateway" to the West. The Gateway Arch forms part of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial (in the picture on the right), also consisting of the Old Courthouse (where the Dred Scott trial began) and the Museum of Westward Expansion. It costs $10 to go on the tram up the Arch, but worth it for the view.
The Jefferson National Expansion Memorial forms the heart of downtown Saint Louis. Downtown is also home to Busch Stadium (where the Cardinals play) and the Washington Street district, which contains some of the best restaurants and clubs in the city.
Central West End
This is where I live, so I'm a little biased. The CWE is what you might call the "yuppie" part of Saint Louis. A large number of students live here since it's right next to Barnes-Jewish hospital and directly halfway between Saint Louis University and Washington University. The CWE contains lots of restaurants, cafes, coffeeshops (including the Coffee Cartel in the picture), bookstores, and quirky boutiques. So in other words, Kossacks will feel quite at home here. The main Obama campaign office in Missouri was on Euclid Street in the CWE. The CWE is also home to the Cathedral Basilica, the absolutely stunning seat of the Saint Louis Archdiocese.
Soulard
Saint Louis' historically French neighborhood, just south of downtown. "Soulard" is French for "drunkard," which actually makes a lot of sense. Although a mostly residential area now, Soulard is home to the second-largest Mardi Gras celebration in the country.
Dogtown
Saint Louis' historically Irish neighborhood. I swear that I'm not drawing any causal links, but some of the best bars in the city are in Dogtown. Dogtown and the Central West End are both located along Forest Park (more on this in the "Things To Do" section").
The Hill
Saint Louis' historically Italian neighborhood. It's not really a hill so much; I'm honestly not quite sure why they call it that. More on The Hill in the "Where to Eat" section.
University City
As the name suggests, this is where Washington University (my other stomping ground) is located. U-City is known primarily for (besides for the Scientology Temple located in a former Masonic Lodge, much to the confusion of conspiracy theorists everywhere) The Loop, a mile-long bar/restaurant party street. Even though The Loop is populated primarily by undergraduates, it's definitely worth a visit. Two of the best venues for live music in Saint Louis, Blueberry Hill (where, at the age of 82, Chuck Berry still performs once a month) and The Pageant, are on The Loop.
Things To Do
More on the Saint Louis music scene--Saint Louis has one of the best live music scenes you'll find anywhere in the country (a big admission coming from a Nashville native!). Saint Louis has produced so many artists, from the legends like Chuck Berry and Tina Turner:
To the more contemporary (and yes, I'm aware that this song came out in 2000 so isn't really "contemporary" anymore) hip-hop artists like Nelly:
If you prefer museums to music, be sure to check out the Saint Louis Art Museum, the Missouri History Museum, the Saint Louis Science Center (great if you have kids), and the [www.stlzoo.org Saint Louis Zoo]. All of these museums are located in Forest Park, the largest urban park in the United States (bigger than Central Park in New York City). You can do just about any sort of outdoor activity in Forest Park throughout the year. Definitely check out the Jewel Box, a huge greenhouse in the middle of the park, where I'm seriously considering having my wedding (the fact that I don't even have a boyfriend at the moment is a mere technicality). In the fall, Forest Park hosts a huge balloon race, where the night before you can walk through and see all of the huge balloons lit up.
If you're into sports, Saint Louis has three pro teams--the Cardinals (baseball), the Rams (football), and the Blues (hockey). As a Nashville native, I actually hate both the Rams and the Blosers, so I only root for the Cards. But if you're in town during baseball season, definitely check out a Cards game--Busch Stadium is a great venue right on the river.
Yes, Busch, as in Anheuser-Busch (now AB-InBev). The national headquarters of A-B is in Saint Louis, and Saint Louis figures prominently in A-B's desperate attempts to still paint itself as an all-American beer in spite of being bought out by a Belgian multi-national. But the A-B Brewery is a must-see, and fun for the whole family. The kids get to see the Clydesdales, while the parents get drunk on free samples!
One last place I'd recommend for (older) kids is the City Museum downtown. It's not a museum, but rather a giant four-story high metal jungle gym, with a seven-story high tube slide. It's a ton of fun, but as a law student, I feel that it's a massive lawsuit waiting to happen.
And if you're not traveling with kids, then you could spend an evening going down to the river and blowing your money on the riverboat casinos, such as the Lumière or the Casino Queen (although having been there, I must say--"Home of the Loosest Slots" my ass!)
Where and What To Eat
As a Southerner, I thought that we had the most unhealthy food in the country, but Saint Louis sure gives us a run for our money. Some of the great regional cuisine that you must try includes toasted ravioli (the Southerners are very impressed that they figured out how to fry pasta), Provel cheese (which should never be eaten straight, only on pizza), gooey butter cake (which is exactly what it sounds like. You eat it and you feel your arteries clogging in real time!) and frozen custard.
On the subject of frozen custard--if you go to Saint Louis and don't go to Ted Drewes, then you really didn't go to Saint Louis. You order the flavor you want in a Concrete, called such because it's so thick that you can turn your cup over and it won't spill out. There are two locations, but the one on Chippewa Street was a landmark on the original Route 66.
As I've mentioned before, The Hill is St. Louis' Italian district, and thus has some of the best food in the city. It's a residential area, so every restaurant on The Hill feels like you're eating in someone's Italian kitchen. I recommend Zia's and (if you want to splurge) Giovanni's on the Hill, but they're all good.
For other types of cuisine, I recommend Rasoi and Drunken Fish in the Central West End for Indian and Japanese respectively, Thai Pizza Company on The Loop (yes, Thai pizza. It's an experience), Wasabi Sushi Bar downtown, and Imo's for pizza (multiple locations).
As for what to drink with your food, the obvious answer would be an Anheuser-Busch product. However, I'd also recommend that you check out a smaller St. Louis brewery, Schlafly Beer (Yes, it's the same Schlafly family as wingnut anti-feminist Phyllis Schlafly. No, she has nothing to do with the brewery. No, you shouldn't hold the name against them as the beer is quite good). They sell all sorts of beer, some only seasonally. The Pumpkin Ale in early fall was to die for. The Schlafly Tap Room is likewise a great place to eat and drink.
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I hope you've found this diary informative, and that you'll consider coming and visiting a great American city. Seriously, I'm in law school and I'm bored as hell. Someone come and visit so that I'll have something to do besides work!
And here is some information about the Daily Kos Travel Board diary series:
List of Past & Future DKos Travel Board Diaries:
USA
Alabama
left my heart
Arizona
Phoenix - Leftcandid
California
Northern CA - SallyCat
Northern Orange County - Seneca Doane
Sacramento - tgypsy
San Diego - SDChelle (can offer advice)
Southern - Jbeaudill
Colorado
Lakewood/Denver - carver
DC area
lulu57
Florida
Oceanview - ObamOcala
Panhandle area - panicbean
Hawaii
Big Island - Purple Priestess
jlms qkw
Indiana
Southern part of state - kathryn1812
Maine - Cartoon Messiah
Coastal Islands - ksingh
Massachusetts
oceanview
Boston - tnichlsn
Minnesota
Minneapolis - parryander
Missouri
St. Louis - GoldnI
Kansas City - annetteboardman
Montana
Big Sky Country Part 1 - Ed in Montana
New Jersey - Blue Jersey Mom
New Mexico - linc
Santa Fe and north - claude
Albuquerque – votingformydaughtersfuture
Southern – 4 corners
New York
New York City - plf515, LarryinNYC, DrSteveB
North Carolina
Charlotte - eeff
Chapel Hill - chunyang
Oklahoma - karesse
Oregon
Portland – arenosa,
Portland – Hardhat Democrat
coastal - Jbeaudill
Pennsylvania
Pittsburgh - Pandora's Box, housesella
Lancaster - spedwybabs
Central PA, Harrisburg - wishingwell
South Carolina
Charleston – CamillesDad1
Tennessee
Great Smoky Mountains – RantNRaven
Nashville – fiddlegirl
Chattanooga – Sandy on Signal
Texas
Dallas-Fort Worth – drchelo
West – 4 corners
Utah
Salt Lake City – jlms qkw
Vermont
North-central - 4freedom
Virgin Islands Caneel
Washington
Leavenworth - marlakay
I-90, WI-MN border - 1864 House
Other countries
Belgium - Cartoon Messiah
Cambodia - LaughingPlanet
Canada
Alberta – TexMex
Montreal - dragOn
Thunder Bay - Howth of Murth
Vacounver - Purple Priestess (can give information)
China
Shanghai – mweens
Sichuan – LaughingPlanet
Yunnan - LaughingPlanet
Colombia
Bogata - bogbud
Costa Rica - Alice Olson
Croatia - seenos
England
London – shazzbot
North England – Cartoon Messiah
France
Lyon - melanchthon
Germany - lizah
India
Northern States - LaughingPlanet
Indonesia
Sumatra - LaughingPlanet
Italy
Rome - lizah
Japan
Tokyo – YoyogiBear
Korea - LaughingPlanet
Laos - LaughingPlanet
Mexico
Cancun, playa del Carmen, Tulum - davidseth
Colonial Mexico - TKWow
Jalisco (SW Mexico) – mango
Pakistan
Northern Areas- LaughingPlanet
Scotland - linc
Edinburgh - SDChelle
Spain - Cartoon Messiah
Thailand - anniesamui
Bangkok – Shunpike
Tibet - LaughingPlanet - LaughingPlanet
Wales - linc
If you are traveling, you may contact the person listed to see what they can do for you. They may be able to host a person, or have a meal, or just offer advice. Note they are not obligated to anything these are just people who have told us what areas they live in or have expertise. Also, any arrangements you make are between you and the person you write to.
If you care to volunteer for future weeks in this franchise, please contact plf515 or LaughingPlanet, or mention where in the comments below.